Guide to Buying an Irish Wolfhound

Finding a Puppy Guide

Based on "Guide to buying an Irish Wolfhound Puppy"

by Anne Vaudin of

If you haven't seen an Irish wolfhound at close quarters, try to make contact with one. Ask an owner and dog to visit you for a 'test run' - it's amazing how much bigger a wolfhound is in a crowded family room, where he will happily demonstrate how a coffee table makes a fine feeding stand; how your interest in sport will wane when he stands in front of the television just as the winning goal is scored; how children will put their toys away - or lose them. For those of you who have already owned a dog, you will know what to expect.

Choosing a dog

A bit too big?

A little too small.

Too fuzzy for me!

Too fat to crawl.

Before you wrap it tight

And crate it home,

Behold its appetite

And room to roam.

A sloppy yap, a barking slur,

Puppy eyes to be let free,

A him? a her? an unmarked cur,

Let's pout to see its pedigree.

The perfect pet quest:

Which pup is best?

e Andrew De Prisco f

Puppy Growth Information

1. Do your homework

It is your responsibility to learn all you can about the breed, including the problems. Even the most devoted wolfhound owner will admit that there are downsides to living with 170 lb of Irish hooligan, and only you can decide how important they will be to you and your family. Learn about the health problems associated with the breed: liver shunt, bloat, cardiomyopathy, bone cancer, and the wolfhound's special requirements, such as raising feeding bowls and restricting a puppy's exercise.

Life with a wolfhound, as with any other dog poses all sorts of problems!

Are you sure?

Have you the space . . .
in your house, your garden, your car, your heart?

Have you the money . . .
for vet bills, third party insurance, quality dog food?

Have you the commitment . . .
to dog-walk in all weathers,
to pick up vast heaps of pooh,
to spend time talking to him,
to provide the discipline, as well

as the love, that he needs?

Are you sure you can cope with a dog whose head is at kitchen worktop height?

5. Check out the litter

(Balin 6 weeks)

The breeder should allow you to see the litter interacting, although she may then separate the sold-but-not-yet-collected pups so you can compare the available ones.

The breeder will have already started to assess which puppy will best fit your lifestyle, etc. And by seven weeks of age, the puppies will have begun to develop a world-view. Each one will have a special way of relating to littermates (siblings), mom, and the world beyond.

When you are on your way to see the puppies, be prepared that the breeder might not agree with your personal choice of puppy. Soon you'll be peering into a box full of wriggling puppies. I'm warning you, they're going to be unbelievably cute, and the chances are, one or two pups will capture your fancy right away. Maybe you like the biggest pup, the smallest pup, or the one with the most soulful expression. First impressions can be very persuasive, but you need to look at the puppy behind the pretty face before you make your decision. Listen to the advise your breeder gives you, she will know best which puppy is probably right for you. You and your breeder will have spent many hours discussing your family, your expectations, etc. Each puppy will have a character all of his own. Each has his own way of approaching other puppies, interacting with you, and exploring his environment. You and your breeder need to measure these qualities so that you can see how the puppy's personality complements your own.

If they're sleeping, let them wake up gradually. They should be alert and interested, though they may not approach you immediately. Once they are accustomed to you, they should be friendly and increasingly confident.

Expect to see clean, plump (but not pot-bellied) puppies in a warm, clean, fresh smelling environment, with clean water, comfortable bedding and enough space to play. They should have bright, clear eyes and damp noses with no discharge. Ears should be clean and odor-free. Coats should be shiny and supple with no scurf, scabs or bare patches. Bottoms should be clean, with no soreness or staining.

Allow the pups to build up confidence in you by squatting down and talking to them in a gentle, happy voice, and encourage them to approach you by holding out a hand to be sniffed. Move and speak slowly and gently. Don't pick them up unless invited to, and ask the breeder to show you the correct way to hold a wolfhound puppy. Well socialized puppies should not growl at you, but most will mouth you given the chance - all puppies nibble at anything they can.

Assessing the character of puppies in a relatively short space of time is not easy, but avoid choosing the timid one hiding in a corner or the rambunctious one that leaps all over you. They are likely to mature into submissive and dominant dogs respectively, and although with patience and correct handling they may become require an extra commitment of hard work and experience from their owner. Look for the puppy who is sensible enough to be cautious of you, but bold enough to investigate and overcome his caution. The chances of him growing into an intelligent, well mannered wolfhound will be good. Notice if the puppies are at ease in the house. If so, they are probably accustomed to household noises and activities such as the telephone, door bell, vacuum cleaner, radio etc, and are likely to have been well handled by the breeder and perhaps her family.

Do not assume that the largest in the litter will necessary grow into the largest adult, as growth rates vary greatly. Whether or not yours grows into a large wolfhound, he'll still be bigger than most other dogs!

You should be able to see the litter interacting. Wake sleeping puppies gently. Clean, plump puppies! Yumm!

Don't pick them up without permission. Expect socializing by the breeder's family.

PUPPY TYPES

Puppy number 1: The Top Dog

With littermates: "Challenge and win" is this puppy's motto. She loves to play and wrestle, mainly because she always wins. She thinks she's hot stuff, and her behavior shows it. This is the puppy that mock-fights with the squeaky toys and relentlessly attempts to break down the barricade.

With you: You'll probably meet her first. She'll charge forward, leap in the air, and wag her tail furiously. Don't get a swelled head - she's like that with everyone. This gal mouths excessively, jumps, and maybe even climbs on top of you to show off her confident flare.

The right owner: Many people fall for this girl's fancy greeting act because it's so flattering. But she's not trying to flatter you - she just wants to be first. Very intelligent and funny, she needs an owner with the time and perseverance to train her.

Puppy number 2: The next in line

With littermates: This puppy loves a good wrestle, too, and spends a lot of time fending off the leader of the pack. When he's not under assault, he spends his time mock-fighting with lower-ranking pups and exploring his surroundings.

With you: Confident and happy, he's not as pushy as the leader. He may mouth you and jump just to show you that he's a pretty outgoing puppy, too.

The right owner: Although not as cocky as the Top Dog, this puppy is energetic and boisterous and needs an owner with similar qualities. He'll keep a close eye on you and may take advantage when your back is turned. He's great with a family dedicated to an assertive training regimen.

Puppy number 3: The Middleman

With littermates: I call this puppy the explorer. She defends herself in a wrestling match, but competition is not really her cup of tea. She'd rather explore her surroundings and pursue more peaceful activities with littermates.

With you: What a relaxing change from the other two. She sits calmly, maybe getting up to follow you as you walk around the room. She may mouth or climb on your chest, but her energy level is moderate compared to you-know-who and her cohort.

The right owner: This dog is often ideal for laid-back families. She'll have a high tolerance for noise and confusion. Although she needs training, occasional lapses won't result in a battle for control.

Puppy number 4: The passive pup

With littermates: This puppy is shy with his littermates. He submits passively to the other puppies, who always know a softie when they see one. He interacts with lower-ranking siblings and enjoys quiet exploration and play.

With you: The passive pup is calm and quiet. He might mouth you tentatively. When you walk around the room, he may be more content to watch.

The right owner: This calm, considerate temperament needs an owner with the same qualities. Older children may enjoy this dog, but everyone must be aware of his sensitivity and use the gentlest handling techniques. This puppy needs training to enhance his self-image, but it must be done with much patience, very little discipline, and a lot of positive reinforcement.

Puppy number 5: The shy pup

With littermates: Your heart will go out to this little creature. She shows fear when approached by her dominant littermates. She may play with puppy number 4, but she usually plays by herself. You find this pup playing with a chew toy in the corner or exploring by herself while the other puppies are wrestling.

With you: You'll feel sorry for this pup. She'll be happiest curled in your lap and may show fear if you make sudden movements or walk across the room. She doesn't like loud noises at all.

The right owner: She needs a very special owner who is patient and supportive. Gentle training methods can help develop her self-esteem.

6. Check out 'your' puppy

Once you think you have chosen a puppy, ask the breeder to show you his mouth. The gums should be pink, and the upper teeth should be straight and fit closely over the lower ones.

Check for a small soft lump on the umbilicus or between the back legs, which could be a hernia. If so, a small operation may be required - not a reason not to buy the puppy, but you should be aware of it, and it should be reflected in the price.

Check your puppy thoroughly before you bond with it.

7. Paperwork

Once you are certain you have found the right puppy, it is usual for a non-refundable deposit of say, 20-25% to be paid to reserve him if the litter is not yet ready to leave the breeder. You should receive a receipt showing the balance due on collection.

The breeder should provide you with comprehensive written instructions with regard to feeding, exercise, grooming, training, worming etc. She may supply a small

quantity of food in case you have difficulty obtaining the same brand.

When you collect the puppy you are normally asked to sign a simple sales contract, covering matters such as whether or not you can breed from the puppy, and whether it should be returned to the breeder if you are unable to care for it in any way. All of this is for the puppy's protection.

The breeder should have registered the puppy with the Kennel Club, and ideally will endorse the registration to prevent him from being exported or bred from. You should receive confirmation of this, together with a signed, pedigree.

Most of the paperwork is handed over when you collect your puppy.

Ideally, you should be able to locate the testicles in male puppies, but often one or both may not be descended yet. Be wary - in some cases, they will fail to descend, necessitating surgery later to prevent malignancy

And finally . . .

you've done all the hard work . . .

you get your new puppy home . . .

� and that's when the fun starts!

Tips for when you get your puppy home

Buy your Irish wolfhound puppy ONLY from a reputable breeder

STOP "PUPPY MILLING" - TOGETHER WE CAN MAKE A DIFFERENCE

Puppy farms (puppy mills) exist in all countries, their sole purpose being to make money. Adult dogs are production machines, living in appalling conditions, with no respite between litters. When too old to breed they are destroyed (not necessarily humanely) or turned loose.

A 'farmed' puppy has been born to a poorly nourished, neglected bitch; is weaned onto minimal amounts of low quality food; and lives in a cramped, dirty environment with no human contact. He has had the worst possible start in life and as a result may have long-term health and behavioral problems.

THIS CAN NOT CONTINUE, please help by NEVER buying a puppy from a puppy miller or a petstore!

Certainly he will cost less than a puppy raised by a careful breeder, but a frail, sickly, unsocialized puppy is a liability both financially and emotionally, not a bargain. You may pity the pup, and feel that you can make up for his dreadful start by giving him a good home, but if you buy him you are allowing the puppy farmer who bred him to prosper.

These are just a few sites that will give you information about Puppy Mills, people really need to be aware of the plight of that cute puppy you saw at the petstore, many of them come from Puppy Mills, many are advertised on websites!!

http://www.hsus.org/ace/11797

http://www.stoppuppymills.org

http://www.turner.com/planet/promotions/puppies/prisoners.html

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