Rohan Irish Wolfhounds

 

 

 

Finding a Puppy Guide

 

Based on "Guide to buying an Irish Wolfhound Puppy"  by Anne Vaudin

of

www.irishwolfhounds-guernsey.com

If you haven't seen an Irish wolfhound at close quarters, try to make contact with one.  Ask an owner and dog to visit you for a 'test run' - it's amazing how much bigger a wolfhound is in a crowded family room, where he will happily demonstrate how a coffee table makes a fine feeding stand; how your interest in sport will wane when he stands in front of the television just as the winning goal is scored; how children will put their toys away  - or lose them.  For those of you who have already owned a dog, you will know what to expect.

 

1.                               Do your homework


It is your responsibility to learn all you can about the breed, including the problems. Even the most devoted wolfhound owner will admit that there are downsides to living with 170 lb of Irish hooligan, and only you can decide how important they will be to you and your family. Learn about the health problems associated with the breed: liver shunt, bloat, cardiomyopathy, bone cancer, and the wolfhound's special requirements, such as raising feeding bowls and restricting a puppy's exercise.

 

Life with a wolfhound, as with any other dog poses all sorts of problems!

Are you sure?

Have you the space . . .
in your house, your garden, your car, your heart?

Have you the money . . .
for vet bills, third party insurance, quality dog food?

Have you the commitment . . .
to dog-walk in all weathers,
to pick up vast heaps of pooh,
to spend time talking to him,
to provide the discipline, as well as the love, that he needs?

 

Are you sure you can cope with a dog whose head is at kitchen worktop height?

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

5. Check out the litter


The breeder should allow you to see the litter interacting, although she may then separate the sold-but-not-yet-collected pups so you can compare the available ones.

If they're sleeping, let them wake up gradually. They should be alert and interested, though they may not approach you immediately. Once they are accustomed to you, they should be friendly and increasingly confident.

 

Expect to see clean, plump (but not pot-bellied) puppies in a warm, clean, fresh smelling environment, with clean water, comfortable bedding and enough space to play. They should have bright, clear eyes and damp noses with no discharge. Ears should be clean and odor-free. Coats should be shiny and supple with no scurf, scabs or bare patches.  Bottoms should be clean, with no soreness or staining.

Allow the pups to build up confidence in you by squatting down and talking to them in a gentle, happy voice, and encourage them to approach you by holding out a hand to be sniffed. Move and speak slowly and gently. Don't pick them up unless invited to, and ask the breeder to show you the correct way to hold a wolfhound puppy. Well socialized puppies should not growl at you, but most will mouth you given the chance - all puppies nibble at anything they can.

Assessing the character of puppies in a relatively short space of time is not easy, but avoid choosing the timid one hiding in a corner or the rambunctious one that leaps all over you. They are likely to mature into submissive and dominant dogs respectively, and although with patience and correct handling they may become rewarding and loving family pets they will require an extra commitment of hard work and experience from their owner. Look for the puppy who is sensible enough to be cautious of you, but bold enough to investigate and overcome his caution. The chances of him growing into an intelligent, well mannered wolfhound will be good.

Notice if the puppies are at ease in the house. If so, they are probably accustomed to household noises and activities such as the telephone, door bell, vacuum cleaner, radio etc, and are likely to have been well handled by the breeder and perhaps her family.

Do not assume that the largest in the litter will necessary grow into the largest adult, as growth rates vary greatly. Whether or not yours grows into a large wolfhound, he'll still be bigger than most other dogs!

 

You should be able to see the litter interacting.

Wake sleeping puppies gently.

Clean, plump puppies! Yumm!

Don't pick them up without permission.

Expert socializing by the breeder's family.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Buy your Irish wolfhound puppy ONLY from a reputable breeder

 

Puppy farms (puppy mills) exist in all countries, their sole purpose being to make money. Adult dogs are production machines, living in appalling conditions, with no respite between litters. When too old to breed they are destroyed (not necessarily humanely) or turned loose.

A 'farmed' puppy has been born to a poorly nourished, neglected bitch; is weaned onto minimal amounts of low quality food; and lives in a cramped, dirty environment with no human contact. He has had the worst possible start in life and as a result may have long-term health and behavioral problems.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

These images are considered to be public domain; they depict dogs and their living conditions inside puppy mills.  Please feel free to use them in your own materials.

 

THIS CAN NOT CONTINUE, please help by NEVER buying a puppy from a puppy miller!

 

Certainly he will cost less than a puppy raised by a careful breeder, but a frail, sickly, unsocialized puppy is a liability both financially and emotionally, not a bargain. You may pity the pup, and feel that you can make up for his dreadful start by giving him a good home, but if you buy him you are allowing the puppy farmer who bred him to prosper.

 

Ideally, you should be able to locate the testicles in male puppies, but often one or both may not be descended yet. Be wary - in some cases, they will fail to descend, necessitating surgery later to prevent malignancy     And finally . . .

 

 

 


 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

7.         Paperwork


Once you are certain you have found the right puppy, it is usual for a non-refundable deposit of say, 20-25% to be paid to reserve him if the litter is not yet ready to leave the breeder. You should receive a receipt showing the balance due on collection.

The breeder should provide you with comprehensive written instructions with regard to feeding, exercise, grooming, training, worming etc. She may supply a small quantity of food in case you have difficulty obtaining the same brand.

 

When you collect the puppy you are normally asked to sign a simple sales contract, covering matters such as whether or not you can breed from the puppy, and whether it should be returned to the breeder if you are unable to care for it in any way. All of this is for the puppy's protection. 

The breeder should have registered the puppy with the Kennel Club, and ideally will endorse the registration to prevent him from being exported or bred from. You should receive confirmation of this, together with a signed, pedigree.

 

Most of the paperwork is handed over when you collect your puppy.

 

6.     Check out 'your' puppy

 

Once you think you have chosen a puppy, ask the breeder to show you his mouth. The gums should be pink, and the upper teeth should be straight and fit closely over the lower ones.

Check for a small soft lump on the umbilicus or between the back legs, which could be a hernia. If so, a small operation may be required - not a reason not to buy the puppy, but you should be aware of it, and it should be reflected in the price.

 

Check your puppy thoroughly before you bond with it.

 

you've done all the hard work . . .


you get your new puppy home . . .


and that's when the fun starts!